Wednesday, February 16, 2011
Best of NYFW Fall 2011 - Days 3,4,5,6
Jenny Packham was inspired by the jeweled irridescence and fragility of moths, a vision reflected in the delicate web motif used in many of this season's gowns as well as the models' beautifully highlighted and brightened faces. Fans of the British designer will note that she has not strayed far from her signature sense of shimmer; Some gowns looked much like pieces already spotted on the who's who of the red carpet
The Monique Lhuillier woman is always a lady. Lhuillier may have built her brand on frothy red carpet confections and princess-perfect bridal gowns, but with her new collection, she seems to be interested in a world beyond tulle. Even the most romantic gowns were decidedly sexy, some featuring sheer panels and lace, others cut to show some leg.
Marc Jacobs' Fall 2011 collection featured plenty of hot little pencil skirts in wildly inventive, futuristic fabrics, including rubberized discs that gleamed like sequins. Models strutted to the tune of Marilyn Manson in fitted peplum dresses and collared cocktail gowns, all of which looked particularly jaunty paired with tiny, chin-strapped hats. All silhouettes looked corseted, sexy, reined in tight.
Reese showed an overwhelming variety of looks, from a full-length black-and-white print jumpsuit to a flirty flapper sequined dress worn under a cape with trendy structured shoulders. The designer added faux fur to classic silhouettes for a highly wearable boho-glam look: among her most covetable designs was a glittering black cocktail dress with a sleek faux fur skirt. So maybe Reese didn't want to stick to a theme this season—with clothes this cute, it hardly matters.
The runway at Carolina Herrera's Fall 2011 show stretched out before a digital rainbow of color, a backdrop that displayed a spectrum of bold hues incorporated into the beloved designer's latest collection. Many of the pieces played with color gradations, with sensual magentas slipping into burgundies and champagnes. Some gowns featured strikingly structural details, from architectural pleats to carefully-constructed, wing-like sleeves.
Most of the models at the Badgley Mischka Fall 2011 show wore foxy, retro glovelettes with their prim, tailored cocktail dresses and pencil skirts. Those who didn't wore evening gowns—sometimes accompanied with full-length leather gloves. Badgley Mischka does sumptuous, and it does it well. The latest collection is no different, with a variety of floor-length evening gowns in sensual jewel tones, some intricately beaded in all the right places.
Rodarte's Fall 2011 collection brought, yet again, the brilliant texture for which the Mulleavy sisters are renowned. Lush, slouchy sweaters were pulled over transparent flared skirts with baroque gold embroidery. High-collared, long-sleeved dresses featured crystal accents at the cinched waist. And prints, all delicate, were juxtaposed with geometrical, angled shapes.
New York City is facing one of the coldest, snowiest winters in recent memory, but the spate of inclement weather hasn't seemed to affect Vera Wang's vision for fall. Her latest collection is filled with filmy chiffon dresses of varying length, all pleated, in muted neutral shades and the occasional chartreuse or burgundy. But Ms. Wang wouldn't expect her customer to bear the snow in an ethereal chiffon, which is why she showed many of these pieces beneath bulky, aggressive parkas lined with fur. Other gowns were paired with thick leather gloves and heavy peep-toe booties for an equally startling contrast.
Each season, designer Max Azria is tasked with updating a classically sexy look: the Hervé Léger bandage dress. This year, Azria revamped the signature silhouette on several of his shorter dresses, allowing thighs some breathing room in ever-so-slightly flared skirts. Many dresses featured peek-a-boo cut-outs, while others were shaped by the weight of their adornments. The all-neutral and black collection will, as always, find favor with the celebrity set over the next year.
Dennis Basso's Fall 2011 collection featured saucy cable knit frocks with matching legwarmers, structured pencil skirts beneath elegantly flouncy sweaters, crisp tailored pantsuits, and a glittering floor-length skirt worn with a racy crochet halter sweater. Especially breathtaking was Basso's embroidered turtleneck dress with its beautifully textured petaled skirt, while true fur fans will probably find the crocodile-trimmed coats enticing.